![]() Mask policy: required for staff and patronsĪddress, phone: 933 Peachtree St. Service options: takeout delivery via Uber Eats and DoorDash What I ordered: whole bird with Korean slaw, macaroni and cheese, the Standard, fries with honey butter, plus large cups of each of the three sauces Menu: contemporary take on Korean fried chicken, with creative sides Is there a restaurant you want to see featured? Send your suggestions to. Chang is doing what’s good for his soul, it seems. The takeaway: Lovers of Korean fried chicken will want to check out this modern riff. The soy garlic was the best of the three. The Korean sweet heat was better, but a bit syrupy and not prickly enough. The menu suggests it as a dip for the fries. ![]() The biggest disappointment was the honey butter. What needs work are the sauces, which tend to be rather sweet. I also loved the smoked gouda mac and cheese (covered with bits of crispy bacon), and a clever slaw called the Standard (green cabbage, white onion and sweet corn, topped with creamy, gochujang-spiked Thousand Island dressing). I found it to be even better with a bite of the traditional Korean slaw, a mix of ultra thin scallions and red cabbage with some good heat from the gochugaru vinaigrette and some nuttiness from toasted sesame oil. (The chicken actually is fried twice, the classic Korean way: Once to cook it internally, a second time to crispen.) Dropped in oil, the coating solidifies into a shattering crunch. It appears to be a rather thin, delicate batter. Chang, who spent four years developing recipes, said the secret is the addition of pure grain alcohol to the batter, to impart flakiness. If Mukja had been around then, I would have been a regular. I remember how the first restaurants in the building struggled, even though the options nearby were limited at the time. I lived at the Metropolis in the early 2000s, just after it was built. I approached Mukja with a bit of nostalgia. While most traditional Korean fried chicken joints offer their bird plain or coated with sauce (often fiery, with garlic and gochujang), Mukja’s gently spiced chicken arrives naked, with sauces for dipping on the side.
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